A Side of Sweet

Pat’s here, Pat’s here, Pat’s here!  He was stopped in customs and delayed almost 30 minutes for random questioning, but he made it through.  It’s good he did, because we didn’t have a backup plan and I was driving myself to distraction with “What ifs?” waiting for him at the airport.  He’s going to guest blog a bit during the trip, so stay tuned for a post from him about his experience with the Cuban customs officers.

We dropped his bags off at our casa particular and explored a bit more of Havana.  We walked along the Malecon, a sidewalk on the coast where people go to promenade and socialize.

We saw men fishing, admired the colorful fish caught by some snorkelers and even caught a girl riding a bike MUCH too big for her.

We stopped to check out Hotel Nacional, the nicest hotel in the city, and the place where visitors such as Jack Nicholson and the Backstreet Boys have stayed.  Pat took an opportunity to stop and smell the flowers outside the hotel:

It was a great place to catch the sunset over the sea and also make us thankful that we’re staying in a Casa and not so far removed from reality.

We stopped for our first mojitos at a place along the Malecon and had a failed attempt at dinner when the vinegar served with our salads turned out to be contaminated.  Good thing I always travel with a container for peanut butter!  PB&J sandwiches back at the casa came to the rescue.

After an early morning run along the ocean, I packed up my bags and dropped them off at Casa de Miriam y Sinai.  I then caught a bus to the closest beach to Havvaana – Playas del Este.  It was very nice – clean sand and beautiful warm water but of course full of tourists and locals on this hot Sunday.  I made friends with a couple of Austrian girls which made the day even more pleasant.  Unfortunately, I forgot sunscreen – not good for this pasty Wisconsin winter body.  I now look akin to a lobster and had to take some ibuprofen to ease the pain.  Not good Ms. Future Doctor Lady.

Back in town I moved into my new room and was immediately overwhelmed by the kindness of Miriam and her daughter.  For the first time since I got here, I feel like I am being seen without dollar signs on my forehead.  They have gone out of their way to accommodate me, giving me sugar for the yogurt I bought, offering to do laundry for no fee and ordering me the cheapest taxi in town so I can pick Pat up at the airport tomorrow!  I’m so excited for him to arrive!!!!

More photos from wandering Havana Centro:

Casa Eugenio was booked for Sunday night so I decided to switch from Havana Viejo to Havana Centro to experience life in a different neighborhood.  I followed another Rough Guide recommendation and decided on Casa de Miriam y Sinai near the Chinatown neighborhood of the city.  I celebrated the decision with Chinese food at Flor de Dragon  since it is supposed to be the cheapest and most filling food found in the city.  Tuba is not known for it’s cuisine – something probably not helped by the fact that the best food only goes to the most expensive hotels and the local places have to get by on rations.

Since it was after dark, I took a pedicab back to the casa.  I was pleased and amused by the ride until another reminder of the government here reared its ugly head.  My driver was pulled over by the local police because he doesn’t have the proper permit to carry tourists.  I wasn’t aware of this fact when he offered me a ride and I distinctly remember the guidebooks saying that the fine for this was something like $300!!!!!  I was near enough to my casa that the police told me to get out and walk while they talked to the driver.  It gave me a sick feeling in my stomach, and reinforced that feeling of not knowing my place/what I’m allowed to do in Cuba.

On the way back to the casa, I came across Plaza Viejo.  I noticed a group of men all dressed in white and they called me over to tell me they were in a band and taking a break between sets.

They urged me to grab a table and a beer and hear them regale me with a few songs.  They were lively and fun and it was definitely worth the stop!

And some video:

Back at Casa Eugenio, I crawled into bed, happy to be off my feet and at “home” for the night.

Arriving at the Havana airport was thrilling. I was about to spend two weeks in a country that few Americans have stepped foot on. The first order of business was finding a taxi into the city ($20). I had decided to stick with a Casa Particular – a rented room in a family home. My guidebook recommended Casa de Eugenio Barral Garcia. Walking into Eugenio’s home was like walking into a museum of nick-knacks. I was astonished by the colorful figurines, ornate chandeliers and gaudy fixtures that surrounded me – and also a bit afraid to take a step with my big heavy backpack.

I was told a room would be $30 a night, with breakfast – a bit more than I was willing to pay, regardless of my surroundings. I talked Eugenio and his partner Fabio down to $25, without breakfast.

View from the balcony:

My room was spotless, had a private bathroom, mini-fridge, hot water, and air conditioning – talk about luxury!

 

After checking out the rooftop terrace, I decided to wander a bit to take in the city. Havaanna is very lively and charming – but intimidating at the same time. (But I’ll get to that later.) First impressions of Havaanna – everyone is dressed to impress. The first thing you read in a guidebook or hear about Cuba is how the people have nothing. I was surprised to see the majority of people, especially the youth, dressed in the lastest fashions. Clothing is bright and colorful – and tight! Think of getting dressed to go to a disco in a big city in Europe, but during the middle of the day. There are old American cars everywhere, mostly from the 40’s and 50’s and most are in pristine condition. I could probably make an entire coffee table book just of photos of cars that I’m going to take while I’m hear. They are bea-u-ti-ful!

I did get some insight on how desperate the people here are to make a quick buck off of tourists. Women stopped me on the street asking if I had any extra clothing and many men, called Jinteros here, tried to schmooze me in hopes that they could become my paid….companion.