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Amritsar, India {Travel}

On my last day of work at Delek Hospital, the other docs and I took a combo hired car and train ride to Amritsar, home of the beautiful and famous Golden Temple. My last train experience was in first class AC with a sleeper bed, but all tickets were booked for our train from Pathankot to Amritsar. We ended up trying our luck with the general seating class. It’s basically a free-for-all with two levels of benches with much too many people crammed on to each one.  I spent part of the ride sitting in the aisle on my backpack, but I eventually moved up to the upper seats to join Jessica. It was fun to do for a few hours, but I cannot imagine doing long travel like this! It would have been impossible to sleep!Travel Amritsar India - Indian Railways

Other than visit the Golden Temple, there isn’t a ton of touristy things to do in Amritsar. The girls were happy to have some much-needed time off from Delek and we spent the majority of our time lazing around our guesthouse and doing a bit of shopping.

Our first stop was to buy a Salwar Kameez for Nisha. The fabric stores are filled with hundreds of different fabric options. Our job was to pick out a pattern and then send it off to another shop to get sewn to her body measurements.  The turnaround time is incredible – it only took about 8 hours for the entire outfit to be completed!Travel Amritsar India - Sari Shopping

Travel Amritsar India - Band CampAmritsar is a great place to shop. We wandered the streets of Hall Bazar, which are organized by shop type.  There is a jewelry street, a kitchenware street, a party supply street, a home furnishing street….you get the picture. There were even a few shops that sold band uniforms (see above).  My first thought is that this is bad for business, since it’s easy for the consumer to price check, but apparently it is arranged this way for security.  The shopkeepers all look out for each other if there is any kind of trouble.Travel Amritsar India - Wide Load

My second night in Amritsar, I couchsurfed with a Punjabi family. They made me feel incredibly welcome in their amazing home on the outskirts of Amritsar. I had two nights of delicious Punjabi cooking and great conversations with Jolly and his family. I learned a lot about their lives and they had lots of questions for me about being a doctor and my relationship with Pat. They definitely put me in the hot seat about living with Pat before we’re married! 🙂

Punjabi Cooking Amritsar India

Punjabi Cooking Amritsar India

Punjabi Homestay - Amritsar India

Another well-known temple in Amritsar is Mata Temple.  This temple by far was the wildest and craziest religious site I have ever been to.  The only thing I can compare it to is a McDonald’s funhouse on steroids. There were garish, brightly colored statues everywhere and some parts of the temple required you crawl through tunnels or wade through shallow water troughs (to clean your feet).Mata Temple - Travel Amritsar India

Mata Temple - Travel Amritsar India

Mata Temple - Amritsar IndiaMata Temple - Travel Amritsar India

Mata Temple - Travel Amritsar IndiaOne of the rooms of our guesthouse had an assortment of old books from as far back as the late 1800’s. Many had a psychological/medical theme to them and there were also some amazing old cookbooks!  Check out the titles below and you could see why we were also so intrigued to read them.Reading History - Travel Amritsar India

Reading History - Travel Amritsar India

Reading History - Travel Amritsar IndiaOf course, we had to stop for chai several times in Amritsar. Notice the hotel sign below. Needless to say, we didn’t stay there!Chai Tea Amritsar IndiaIndian Poori Street Food and Homemade Bread - Amritsar India

Anneke’s boyfriend, Ralph, captured the photo below when a group of Indians stopped and asked for a photo. Isn’t the girl just beautiful?DSC_0663-small

May 1, 2013  •  Filed Under: India, Travel No Comments

Things to Never Travel Without – Travel Tips

Travel Smarter :: Great List of Packing Tips!

I keep a Google doc with a packing list that I use when getting ready for any big trip.  If I don’t take an organized approach to packing, I’ll inevitably forget something important.  In that past that has included a camera charger, underwear, a comb, sunglasses…you get the picture.

I’ve compiled a list of things I never travel without. Adding these small items to your bag will ensure your comfort and safety for international travel.

Travel Tips: Things to Never Travel Without

1. Sunscreen, especially for my face!  I like Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunblock.  It’s not greasy and offers protection against UVA and UVB rays. If you’re spending a lot of time in the sun, it may be worth it to bring a sunscreen body spray. My new favorite sunscreen is a powdered form. Technology these days!

2. Almonds.  Perfect protein on the go.  Healthy and portable!  Also, I can’t live without a jar of peanut butter.

3. Lightweight rain jacket that bundles up into a teeny package.

4. Used books I can read and then pass on.

5. Small notepad to jot down my thoughts.  Perfect for those blog ideas that pop up when I’m not near a computer.

6. A small sheet with important numbers of credit card companies, places I’m staying, and insurance policies tucked into a safe pocket

7. Photocopies of my passport. If you’re staying at a hotel you can trust, it’s much better to leave your passport than keep it while you explore. A photocopy is usually a suitable form of ID. (See this post.)

8. Swimsuit!  No matter where I’m going! I’ve learned the hard way that the one time your forget it is the time you meet someone with a hottub/visit a hot springs/hike to a waterfall.

9. Chargers for my phone and camera.  This was a hard lesson learned after I forgot both on two trips in a row!

10. Hydrocortisone cream.  This stuff is like a magic eraser for bug bites, mysterious rashes and allergic reactions.

11. Pashmina.  Works as a scarf, shawl, pillow, beach blanket, and beach coverup.  I usually pack two sizes, medium and x-large.

12. Insect spray or lotion.  The lotion is especially nice since it doesn’t smell and you can apply only on exposed skin.  If you’re going to a place with a big bug problem you may even want to treat your clothes with Permethrin.

13. Hand wipes.  I keep a pack in my purse.  Great for cleaning hands before meals or after a trip to the bathroom when there’s no soap! I also care a small bottle of hand sanitizer

14. Toilet paper.  Many countries don’t use toilet paper when they go. Don’t be caught unprepared!

15. Earplugs/eye shade.  A must for the budget traveler, especially for sleeping on overnight buses and in hostel dorms! Earplugs ensure you will get a decent night’s sleep, which for me is very important.

16. Running shoes!  Duh!

For more travel tips, check out my post on Being a Solo Female Traveler in India

Am I forgetting anything?  Tell me in the comments section below!

April 30, 2013  •  Filed Under: Travel No Comments

My Favorites: Things to Do in Mcleod Ganj, India

For my last post about my time at Delek Hospital and Mcleod Ganj, I want to leave you with a post of my favorite things to do here.  This is a collection of experiences, activities, places to eat and things to do in Mcleod Ganj.

Mcleod Ganj is a great place to volunteer.  Given that the Tibetan government in exile is located here and that a large part of the population is Tibetan, there are many, many opportunities to work for the Tibetan cause. Personally, I volunteered at Delek Hospital and Tibetan Children’s Village, and also spent a day working in the Dharamsala slums via Tong-Len.  These were amazing learning opportunities for me and I am confident that you will be able to find something as rewarding for yourself if you spend time here.Things To Do in Mcleod Ganj - Volunteering at Tong-Len

Visiting Norbulingka Institute in Sidhpur was one of my favorite day trips out of Mcleod Ganj (see my post here).  I recommend taking the public bus, which takes about an hour and costs 15 rupees ($.30). The institute is beautiful and serene and is dedicated to preserving Tibetan handicrafts.  Don’t forget to check out their awesome cafe!  While at Norbulingka, you can also visit Guyato Monestary, also known as the Karmapa Temple.  The Karmapa is one of the four head of one of the main schools of Tibetan Buddhism and does teachings at Guyato Monestary between 2:30 and 3:00pm on Wednesdays and Saturdays.Things To Do in Mcleod Ganj - Norbulingka

I also loved trekking to Triund.  It is about a half day hike from Mcleod Ganj to the top and back and the view of the snow-capped Himalayas is amazing!Things To Do in Mcleod Ganj - Trekking Triund

Take a few hours to visit the Tsuglagkhang Buddhist Complex, home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Museum, and walk the prayer wheel circuit to improve your good karma.

Things To Do in Mcleod Ganj - Tsuglagkhang Buddhist Complex

Although it’s no Rishikesh (the birthplace of yoga), I did check out a few yoga places in Mcleod Ganj. By far my favorite teacher was Amit Namdev of Amit Reiki and Yoga.  He has classes that are appropriate for all yoga experience levels and takes time to give hands on instruction during class to help you improve your practice. His calm manner and great teaching style were exactly what I was looking for in a yoga teacher. I am lucky enough to now call him a friend.

Things To Do in Mcleod Ganj - Amit Reiki and Yoga

Things To Do in Mcleod Ganj - Amit Reiki and YogaI couldn’t start my day without coffee, but unfortunately most coffee shops in Mcleod Ganj don’t open early enough for me to grab a cup of real (not instant) coffee before I head to the hospital.  Thank goodness for the boys at Cafe Budan.  They open around 7:45am and offer amazing espresso and coffee as well as a full Western breakfast menu.  The staff there is wonderful as well and were happy to help me practice Tibetan in the mornings.

Things to Do in Mcleod Ganj - Best place for coffeeThings to Do in Mcleod Ganj - Best place for coffee and for crepes

One of my favorite places to eat in Mcleod Ganj was Crepe Pancake.  You absolutely must try the owner’s burritos!  Apparently, I Mexican nun spent some time in Mcleod and taught her how to make an amazing burrito from scratch. The food takes a while to come, as it’s all made to order by one woman, but it’s definitely worth it.Things to Do in Mcleod Ganj - fresh wholemeal bread and healthy foodBy far the place I visited most often for dinner was Peace Cafe.  They have a full menu of India, Western and Tibetan dishes, and everything I tried was better than I could have imagined. My favorites were their tofu and vegetables (in broth, lightly seasoned with Indian spices) and the tofu massala scramble (tofu, eggs and spices), and tofu and veg thupka (a Tibetan dishes with noodles and veggies).  My mouth is watering just thinking of it! Next door is a little place that sells made fresh sourdough and whole wheat bread. Every time I went in the loaves were so fresh they were still warm!

Other places not pictured:

Common Ground Cafe – great for healthy and thoughtfully prepared dinners and amazing, decadent desserts.  Their homemade toffee bars are buttery, delicious heaven.

Bhagsu Waterfall – a nice 30 minute hike from Mcleod Ganj.  Go early before it gets busy.

Misty Woods Guesthouse – my home away from home in Mcleod Ganj.  Beautiful rooms, great location and an amazing staff that became like family.

April 29, 2013  •  Filed Under: India, Travel 2 Comments

Travel Tips for the Solo Female Traveler in India

Travel Tips for the Solo Female Traveler in India

I’ve done several trips in various corners of the world by myself (see here for one).  Now that I’ve been traveling solo for almost five weeks in India, I thought I would compile a list of travel tips for the solo female traveler in India (or anywhere else for that matter).  As my friend would say, “melhor serviço de Lisboa“, and I hope these trips make sure I’m getting the most out of my travel experience.

India has a bad rap as of late.  There have been a string of violent crimes against Western women here and I’ve read that travel numbers are slowing down.

Overall, I have felt very safe in India. Everyone I ask for directions of advice here is more than willing to stop whatever they are doing to help me.  The hospitality staff at the guesthouses I have stayed at have been amazing.  Other than the occasional creeper staring awkwardly from the sidelines or a group of boys wanting a photo with me, I haven’t felt any more bothered than in any other country I’ve traveled.

Travel Tips for the Solo Female Traveler in India

My Travel Tips for the Solo Female Traveler in India (or anywhere else)

1. Dress conservatively.  This is one of the most important ingredients to a pleasant trip in India.  My rule is that I want to be covered from elbows to ankles.  Part of being culturally sensitive is complying with local modesty norms.  Here, women are modest but elegant. One of the first things I did when I landed in India was buy two high quality tunics that I can wear with leggings.  They are beautiful, lightweight, wrinkle resistant and don’t show dirt – basically the idea travel garment!

2. Follow all your mother’s rules.  Look both ways before you cross the street.  Don’t talk to strangers.  Don’t take a drink from strange men.  All of these still apply.

3. Don’t be afraid to be assertive. India is one country where it’s better to err on the side of not being nice enough. If a strange man pursues you on the street, or if someone rubs up against you inappropriately in a crowd, it’s okay to get angry.  When someone tried to put Holi powder on my face even after I said ‘no’ twice, I hit his hand away from me. Needless to say, I was left in peace after that.  That brings me to my next travel tip….

4.  Learn “Get Away”. If you are able to loudly and angrily shout “Get away,” in the language of your choice, you will catch the attention of others around you and hopefully make the person bothering you hesitate.  In India, “Jao” (pronounced Jayo) means “get away”.

5.  Say ‘no’ to photos with strange men.  It’s very common for a group of Indian men to gather around and ask for photos. I’ve heard that the reasons for this can range from wanting to pretend you are their girlfriend on Facebook to pick pocketing to wanting to press upon you and grope you inappropriately. As a rule, I politely say ‘no’ and keep moving.  Use your own judgment with families and children.

6.  Read Hotel Reviews.  If I’m staying at a place for more than one day, I try to call ahead and make a reservation at a place that I’ve read online reviews for.  In India, a call or email is sufficient to reserve a room and you don’t have to pay the booking fee for some of the online sites.  In general, I avoid guidebook recommendations.  Sure, the place was quaint and tidy when someone visited four years ago, but that doesn’t mean much.  A write up in the Lonely Planet is inevitably the kiss of death for hotel value.  The rates get hiked and the boom in business makes it likely the place will get run down.  Sites like Trip Advisor, with constantly updated reviews, are a better source to get an idea of how a place will look when you show up.

7.  Carry a Photocopy of Your Passport.  As long as you are staying in a reputable establishment (see #6), leave your passport at your residence and carry a photocopy instead.  If your purse gets snatched it’s better to lose a camera and some cash then this precious document.

8.  Take the Right Meds.  I’ve taken care of enough ill travelers to know how miserable it is to get sick in a foreign country.  It’s no fun to take an anti-malarial pill every day, but getting malaria sucks. I once heard it compared to feeling so cold it’s like being dunked in an ice bath, but when someone touches you, you are burning hot.  Carry oral rehydration packets in case you get struck with Delhi Belly (travelers’ diarrhea).  Anti-allergy medication is readily available here, but it wouldn’t hurt to pack a couple of tablets until you can get to a pharmacy.

9.  Say Your Partner is Joining You.  Depending on the situation, it may behoove you to say to the inquiring person that your significant other is joining you at some point in the trip.  For example, you could say your spouse is arriving this weekend from Delhi. Other writers have gone so far as to suggest that you concoct an Indian husband, but I think this is probably overkill.  Nevertheless, it’s good to give the perception that you will be missed if something happens.

10.  Reserve Your Train Tickets Early.  India has a fantastic rail system, but tickets sell out weeks in advance.  You can get on a waitlist for the seat of your choice, but there is only a small penalty if you cancel more than one day in advance (about $2 US), so book early and book often!  This way you will ensure that you don’t end up in the general seating cars, where people are packed in like cattle.

11. Pack a Pashmina.  Or buy one – this is India after all.  The pashmina is one of the most versatile things that I carry.  It can cover your head and add modesty to your outfit when visiting holy places, provide warmth (if you visit in the winter), shield your mouth and nose from road dust, and makes a lovely sun mat if you are having a picnic or a day at the beach.

12.  Carry a Good Bag with a Lock.  I love my Bedstu Hawkeye over the shoulder bag that I purchased from Zappos.  It is roomy and has tons of pockets, is sturdy, and hides dirt relatively well.  It also has a zipper which can be secured with a small travel lock and an outside zipped pocket that sits against my hip where I can keep small change handy.

Travel Tips for the Solo Female Traveler in India

Do you have any tips for being a solo female traveler in India or anywhere else?  Please share them in the comments section below!

April 26, 2013  •  Filed Under: India, Travel 2 Comments

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj – aka “The Scramble”

The other doctors are planning on doing a long trek after they get done working at Delek Hospital.  To get ready, they have been hiking in Mcleod Ganj every morning before work.  Sometimes they will walk for up to two hours!  Crazy!

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls

One Sunday, I decided to accompany them on one of these epic training hikes. It only took about 30 minutes to make me realize that I was out of my league. The only word I can come up with to describe what these girls do every morning is “scrambling”. We basically walked our way through a river bed and climbed up and down huge rocks and sometimes inched our way along steep riverbanks.  It took us about three hours to reach our first destination of Bhagsu Falls, which is only a 30 minute walk from where we started!  Umm, ladies? That’s why roads were invented! 🙂

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls

I ended up bailing on the hike at Bhagsu Falls and heading back to Mcleod Ganj, but the girls went on going for another four hours!  They eventually got caught in a storm and I spent the afternoon feeling very bad fom them as I was tucked under the covers in my guesthouse.

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls

Maybe they have a little goat in them?

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls - Stupid Goats

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls

Although I think they are a wee bit crazy to do these big steep up and down climbs for fun, I am also very impressed.  I ran in the mountains almost every day while in Mcleod Ganj, but I was just no match for their scramble.  Love you girls! xxHiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls

Hiking in Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Falls - Coffee Break

Check out my other post about hiking in Mcleod Ganj here!

April 24, 2013  •  Filed Under: India, Travel No Comments

Gold Heart Cake Topper DIY

Tutorial for How to Make a Rustic Wedding Cake Frosting Design

I thought a cake related post would be fitting today since it’s my birthday!  To…celebrate (?), I’m taking a 14 hour train ride from Rishikesh to Varanasi. I’ll be in Varanasi tonight and because it’s a holy city, there will be no alcohol to be found anywhere. Needless to say, there won’t be much partying. Let’s be serious though, I tend to be kind of lame-o when it comes to partying anyway.  I’d much rather have a bunch of friends over for dinner than go out and get cray cray (is that what the kids are saying these days?).

I’m Couchsurfing in Varanasi so hopefully we’ll find a fun alternative to make the day special.  Who am I to complain anyway?  I’m in India!

To decorate Pat’s rustic birthday cake, I made this fun and easy gold heart cake topper.  It was so easy I almost don’t need to include directions, but here goes:

Gold Heart Cake Topper DIY

You will need

 

Wooden or bamboo skewers
Glue
Gold scrapbooking paper
Twine
Heart Punch

How to Make a Gold Heart Cake Topper DIYInstructions 2

1.  Punch out 8 to 10 hearts from your gold foil.

2.  Cut out about 10 inches of twine.  Fold twine in half and make a mark to signify where the middle is.  Place a drop of glue on the back of one heart, place that mark on the twine on that spot and cover with another gold heart.

3.  Glue the remaining hearts on your twine.  Because the glue doesn’t dry very quickly, you will have plenty of time to slide the hearts to make them spaced equally.

4.  Tie the twine onto your wooden skewers.  I chose to leave a little extra twine hanging off the side.

5.  Pop the skewers into your cake and voila!  That’s it!

Gold Heart Cake Topper DIY for a Wedding Cake

Tutorial for How to Make a Rustic Wedding Cake Frosting Design

April 23, 2013  •  Filed Under: DIY, Wedding, Wedding Inspiration No Comments

Welcome!

San Francisco Food, Fashion, Travel Blogger

Hi! I’m Kelly. I live in San Francisco with my husband, Pat, and our puppy, Maddie. Here you’ll find recipes, DIYs, style, travel & a glimpse into our adventures. To learn a little more about me, Click Here.

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